Chicks & Ducklings

Livestock Sales:
Wild Acres hatches 17 different heritage chicks, Runner ducklings, turkey poults and goslings for gate sales.

We are sold out of all hatching eggs, chicks, ducklings, goslings and turkey poults for 2021.We post updates on our Facebook page. Thank you for supporting our family farm. 

Pre-orders for 2022 can be emailed to us starting on November 1st. Our Facebook page and website will keep everyone posted.

Pick-ups for poultry, waterfowl and hatching eggs are done at our farm gate and are usually prearranged for Sunday afternoons. We are no longer shipping chicks or ducklings.

Due to our biosecurity program please do not drive or walk into our farmyard. We will meet you at the gate when you pick up your chicks, ducklings or eggs. 

Purchasing from us means you accept and agree to our terms and conditions.
Please read our Policies below and see our breed list/order form for more information.

We do test hatches and check for fertility prior to sales to ensure quality chicks and hatching eggs. Emails are preferred and we can answer questions more readily this way as well.

All livestock is subject to availability.

Please read our Poultry and Waterfowl Policies listed below. 

When hatching or picking up unsexed chicks there is normally approximately a 50% male and 50% female ratio. However, there are no guarantees for the female/male ratio with hatching eggs or picked up chicks. There is also no guarantee that your eggs will all hatch or that they will all be show quality chicks or ducklings.

Therefore the rule of thumb for ordering chicks is to order twice as many chicks as you would want hens and that ratio works better with larger numbers. If you order only two chicks that does not guarantee that you will get a male and a female.

Our chicks have all been hand raised with plenty of human contact in preparation for their new homes.  Please be advised that we do not vaccinate our poultry or waterfowl or use antibiotics to raise our birds. They are handed over to you in good health with the potential to live a long and productive life.

Once the chicks, poults or waterfowl, leave our property they become your own responsibility and we are not liable for any unexpected health issues or losses which may occur.  We cannot guarantee the long-term health of your birds, their longevity or the number of eggs that they will lay as these depend on many factors that are beyond our control.

Please read our care tips on raising poultry and or do some research online before considering adding poultry or waterfowl to your home environment. We offer many care tips on our website but we cannot guarantee your success rate as each home environment is unique. 

We do not guarantee show quality. It is possible to get show quality from us but not every bird is worthy of the show. Some grow faster, some are smaller, some have better feather quality or colour and some a more correct body, tail or comb according to the APA Standards. We often separate the smaller chicks and or pullets during their growth stage from the larger breeds or cockerels to ensure they get the nutrition they need for proper vitality. 

A lot also depends on their feed, their daily care and how their growth is affected by the changing weather or your unique climate. We cull hundreds of birds and chose only a few for the show or our breeding pens. Some birds just end up as layers in our main coop and that is ok too. 

We do not ship to the USA or Internationally.

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PRICES AND AVAILABILITY:  
See our price list for more details

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if you have problems filling in the order form please send us an email and let us know and we will assist you

 Deposits hold your place in the queue and reserve your order.

 Payments For Poultry and Waterfowl Orders can be made by:
Interac Email Transfers to info@wildacres.ca

Payments for Pick Up Orders can be made by:
Cash at the gate
Interac Email Transfers prior to pick up.

Sorry, No Personal Cheques, PayPal or Visa.

Poultry and Waterfowl Policies: (Please Read)

    1. We believe in old-fashioned breeding techniques that promote a healthy flock and therefore, we do not vaccinate our chicks or adult birds. 
    2. An order will not be held without an order form. We retain all our files electronically.
    3. Our chickens have all been hand raised and they are handed over to you in good health with the potential to live a long and productive life. 
    4. However, once they leave our property they become your own responsibility and we are not liable for any unexpected health issues or losses which may occur.
    5. Please ensure that you have read/researched poultry or waterfowl needs first in order to be fully prepared for taking on their daily requirements and the life long commitments. 
    6. New birds should be segregated and monitored for at least 30 days before entering your existing flock. 
    7. Wild birds and other animals such as mice can carry a range of disease-causing viruses, parasites and bacteria. Make sure that your birds and their food and water are kept away from wild animals. Promptly clean up spilled feed and litter, and keep feed in sealed, waterproof containers to avoid attracting unwanted guests and to protect it from becoming contaminated.
    8. We cannot guarantee the long-term health of your birds, their longevity or the number of eggs that they will lay as these depend on many factors that are beyond our control.
    9. Wild Acres does not refund or replace the loss of any birds once they are in your custody.
    10. Hatching eggs and will become available in April and be sold until June 30th depending on breed availability and the current order queue.
    11. Day old unsexed chicks will become available in May and be sold until June 30th depending on breed availability and the current order queue.
    12. All of our chicks, duckings, goslings and turkey poults are sold straight run/unsexed, which works out to approximately 50% male and 50% female.
    13. Therefore the rule of thumb for ordering chicks is to order twice as many chicks as you would want hens.
    14. Chicks, ducklings and poults are gate sales only. Please see our order form and breed list for more information.
    15. We will not be selling or shipping pullets or adult birds.
    16.  We do not take back any birds once they are purchased and leave our property due to biosecurity reasons. 
    17. There is a 3 chick minimum for pick up orders.  
    18. No COD orders for shipped eggs.
    19. To ensure your commitment,  a deposit of 20% must be paid when you are ready to place your order ( a minimum of $20 on small chick or waterfowl orders)
    20. Payments are made by Interac email transfer prior to shipping or pick up at the gate to info@wildacres.ca If you are picking up we will also accept cash.
    21. We do not refund deposits on chicks, poults, waterfowl nor eggs unless we can’t supply the order. 
    22. We show poultry and breed towards the Standard of Perfection but we cannot guarantee show quality. 
    23. Due to our biosecurity program please do not drive or walk into our farmyard. We will meet you at the gate when you pick up your chicks, ducklings or eggs. 

Receiving Day Old Chicks:

Image result for UniHeat Pack72 Hour UniHeat Pack : 38C (100F) for picked up chicks

Standard Size Chick Box for 25 chicks, 12″ X 10″ X 7″ (6″ headroom) The holes in the box are 9/16″
Nest pad for chick boxes to keep the babies from sliding around in the box during transit.

Image result for Grogel   GroGel Plus-B

We add a nesting pad to a required chick box for shipping, GroGel Plus-B  for the chicks to eat as well as a 72 hr. UniHeat Pack that will keep your chicks at 38C (100F). GroGel Plus-B provides immediate nutrition and hydration for all baby poultry in a very concentrated and digestible form. GroGel Plus-B mixes easily with water to form a shiny green, edible gel that reverses dehydration and provides critical nutrients and probiotic bacteria.

Just prior to hatching, a chick absorbs all the remaining nutrients from within its egg. With this nourishment, the chick can survive for up to three days without food or water. This makes it possible to ship. In the nest, this process allows the mother to wait out the hatching of other chicks in her clutch before tending to the early hatchers.

Caring for Chicks: (Disclaimer: We can only supply tips for raising poultry but every household is unique and we do not guarantee your success rate.  Please see our Care Tip page for more information.)

No matter how they arrive at your home, chicks all need the same care if they aren’t raised by a hen. The crucial elements for successfully raising newborn chicks come down to the following: 

Heat: Chicks need a safe heat source and a constant temperature between 32 degrees Celsius or 89.6 degrees Fahrenheit for their first week. A 250-watt incandescent bulb, safely attached, will do the trick. Use a brooder guard to keep out drafts.

Food: Feed your chicks commercial chick starter for the first two months. If you are new to owning chicks medicated feed is a good idea. Wild Acres uses medicated chick starter and many of our poultry friends do as well. We wean them off of medicated and slowly add non-medicated chick starter as they move into the pullet stage.  They should always have feed in their brooder. Scatter food on a paper towel flooring or shop towels the first few days and place the feeder in the middle but not directly under the heat.

Water: Have a chick waterer available at all times.  Dip their beaks in the water when they first hatch or arrive home to show them where it is. Clean the waterer daily and raise it up on wooden or cement blocks as the chicks grow to keep it out of the dirty shavings or poop.

We like to add a pinch or two of Electrovite DVL (vitamins and electrolytes) and tablespoon of apple cider vinegar to a chick gallon waterer. Do not use ACV in a metal waterer as it will cause rust. Use it in a plastic waterer only.

Apple Cider Vinegar Benefits Are:
*Reduces intestinal and fecal odors.
*Aids in digestion. *Helps to break down minerals and fats.
*Assists the animal to assimilate proteins. *Assists the animal to convert food better.
*It lowers the pH of the digestive tract which will make an environment less welcoming to pathogens therefore may reduce common infections and increases resistance to disease. *Improves stamina and fertility. *It is a great overall tonic that will improve the general well being of the animal.
If started while Birds are young (1-1/2 to 2 weeks), birds
*Will feather out quicker. *Are hardier. *Grow to their potential sooner when used with an adequate feed. *Apple Cider Vinegar is rich in the vitamins, minerals and trace elements found in apples, especially potassium. * It will normalize pH levels in the stomach, improve digestion and the assimilation of nutrients. *Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) wont work as a “Natural” Wormier it has little affect on worms.
Cautions:
Do not use metal water dishes (except stainless steel).
Vinegar should not be used internally with animals that have an irritated lining of the intestinal tract.
Do not use Apple Cider Vinegar while treating for worms or coccidiosis.

An article from the Chicken Chick:
Chicken Heat Stress, Dehydration and Homemade Electrolyte Solution
http://www.the-chicken-chick.com/2012/07/chicken-heat-stress-dehydration-and/
“Acidified water affects laying hens by making the calcium in her feed a little less digestible (based on chemistry….calcium is a positive ion, and dissociates better in a more alkaline environment). Professional farmers regularly add baking soda to their feed when heat stress is expected….this maintains egg shell quality when hens’ feed consumption drops due to the heat.”
In summary, during high heat conditions, baking soda facilitates calcium absorption while vinegar inhibits it. SKIP the vinegar in the heat, opting for an electrolyte solution instead.
An article from Fresh Eggs Daily:
http://www.fresheggsdaily.com/2012/07/hot-weather-acidosis-and-homemade.html
Temperatures between 55-75F (12.77-23.88C) are optimal, anything higher starts to cause stress to their bodies.

Arrival: Prepare your brooder, heat source, food and waterer before chicks arrive home. As soon as your chicks arrive, place them in a brooder. Too much handling can wear them out and cause stress.

You can buy a brooder or make one yourself. It’s basically an enclosed pen with a good heat source such as a 250 watt heat lamp or electric brooder hen for chicks. A large metal dog crate with 18 inch brooder paper added around the inside or outside to ward off drafts works well. You can hang the heat lamp inside if it is large enough or mount it on top.

We generally hand two lights per broody pen. A regular 250 watt heat lamp and a secondary lower wattage red reptile light. It works well during the hotter summer months or as the chicks grow older. Red reptile lighting systems can be found in your local pet store and they come in 50-150 wattage. The brooder environment should be large enough to provide at least one-half of a square foot per chick.

Chicks dehydrate during transit so place each chick’s beak in the waterer a few times when they arrive so they know where to drink. For best results, provide chicks in the brooder with at least two waterers and one to two feed sources. Keep the waters and feed fairly close to the heat source but not directly under it.

Growing Up: As the chicks get older, you can lower the temperature in the brooder by about five degrees each week or switch to a lower wattage. When the outside temperature is about the same as the brooder temperature, you can move the chicks to a secure outdoor coop but continue to supply heat until they are fully feathered out.

At about eight weeks of age, most chicks have feathers but don’t be too quick to introduce them to the great outdoors without making sure they are ready for it. We do not introduce our chicks to the adult birds until they have had a few months in their own outside pen where they can get used to the climate and where we introduce changes in food gradually over time.

The younger birds watch the older hens free range and they visit each other through the chicken wire. When we release the younger pullets or cockerels they are almost the same size as the rest of our flock and they have strengthened their immune systems and been exposed to the outdoor bacteria environment slowly.  

Bantams and slower growing layer breeds will need more time with the heat lamps and a higher source of protein during the growth period than the dual-purpose and larger breed chicks. We continue to give bantam chickens and smaller breeds a higher source of protein their entire lives. 

Question: Do you check for mg or other diseases on a regular basis?

We take every precaution and observe our poultry with keen eyes daily to ensure the health of our birds. We do not allow weak or sick birds to stay within our flocks. They are removed and culled immediately. We do not use antibiotics or vaccines so our poultry health is of the utmost importance. We are also on good terms with our veterinarians and they visit our farm a few times a year or when we need them.

Due to our biosecurity measures and our selective breeding program. We have not had any major diseases. We have been breeding our birds for many generations for vigor, temperament, egg quality and APA standards. We always meet customers at the gate for pick up orders and we do not allow farm visits or sold birds to return to our property. All new stock is brought in by hatching eggs only and we do not buy or sell adult birds. 

We show birds periodically throughout the year and most of our flock is between 1-4 years of age.  This year we showed our birds at the IPE, National Poultry Show,  Fall Feast and Winter Poultry Show. Any birds showing the slightest signs of anything before the show are eliminated by USA or Canadian judges so we are very careful about having very healthy birds. 

We want to win and keep our good reputation so we strive to improve our breed lines every year. We wash, dry and feed the show birds extra goodies before, during and after the shows. We also quarantine them before and after the shows.   

Throughout the year and especially during the breeding season we spend a lot of money on high quality feed. It has more added protein as well as Non-GMO pellets. We give our birds extra vitamins/minerals and apple cider vinegar year round. We also provide food enhancements such as grains, seeds, fruits, vegetables, alfalfa, garlic, kelp and herbs.

We only hatch eggs that are inspected for cleanliness, cracks, shell thickness, shape, colour and meet the correct criteria for that breed. We cull chicks that do not hatch well or show any signs of weakness and we continue to assess our chicks and chickens throughout their lives. We retain only the best for breeding  and we strive for healthy strong chickens that meet the APA standards as much as possible.

Our top show hens are in our breeding pens and through most of the year we let them out to free range. Our top roosters are in special rooster pens or separated during breeding season. We keep several pens of unrelated roosters and pick out only the best show quality ones for breeding. We prefer 1-3 year old roosters for breeding purposes and we generally use two roosters or more together to aid in the gene pool.  

All of our poultry is regularly dewormed and inspected year round. Each one is marked with a coloured leg band so I know who has been inspected and what year they were in the breeding pen.  If you have any questions please feel free to ask.